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SMOKY,
SMOOTH
AND STRONG
By
David Mortimer-Hawkins
A
guide to the singular pleasures of single malt whiskey
Whiskey
is back. Belly up to the trendiest bars and you’ll
hear artists, actors and hipsters order their favorite
tipple. But this drink isn’t for fools. To
find out what’s behind all the fuss and clear
the clouds of myth and mystery surrounding the potent
malt, we’ve put together a guide to all you
need to know about the drink that has been called
uisgea beatha—the water of life.
In the run-of-the-mill bottle of Scotch-blended
whisky, you can find up to 50 different grain and
malt-whiskeys. The whiskeys may be of different
age, distilleries, regions and types—all mixed
to maintain an even taste that stays the same year
after year. A single malt will only have whiskey
from one distillery, which gives it a much more
marked character.
Whisky
or whiskey:
what’s the difference?
Well, Scotch whisky is produced in Scotland, and
Irish whiskey is produced in Ireland. It’s
just different spelling, really.
is
there any difference in taste?
Funny as it seems, whiskey has only three ingredients:
barley, yeast and water.
Yet it can have a never-ending variety of tastes.
It comes down to the location of the distillery
(Is it close to the sea? High up in the mountains?
In flat fields?), storage (What types of barrels
are used and where are they stored?), age (How long
do they keep it in the barrels?) and distilling
techniques.
On
the rocks or neat?
The best part of the whiskey experience is taken
through the nose. Your nose is a lot more sensitive
than your tongue. Ice kills off a lot of whiskey’s
detailed aromas, which makes the drink less intriguing.
Then again, many people love the taste of whiskey
chilled. Don’t forget it’s your drink.
Order it the way you think tastes best.
MACALLAN
The Rolls-Royce of malt whiskey. This Speyside classic
is probably one of the most famous of all whiskeys
and deservedly so. It’s aged in sherry casks
for a smooth and subtle taste, with loads of sherry
in the nose.
GLENFARCLAS
Speyside whisky deserves more fame. With flavors
of nut, cream, citrus, it smacks of orange marmalade,
coffee and chocolate as it ages. Glenfarclas is
truly one of the finest whiskeys money can buy.
A must have!
LAPHROAIG
This Islay whisky is like biking full speed down
a mountain. Smokier than a Cuban cigar with loads
of salt and seaweed in the nose and taste. There
is a touch of tar and peat as well, making Laphroaig
the most macho of all whiskeys. Once you acquire
the taste, it’s a life-long love affair.
GLENMORANGIE
Ask the Scots what’s best and they’ll
choose this smooth, fruity and sweet malt that ages
exceptionally well. It was immortalized in the film
Highlander.
GLENLIVET
The Glenlivet stamp has always been a sign of quality.
The real thing is a light, flowery malt with a slightly
nutty aftertaste.
GLENKINCHIE
This lowland malt from Edinburgh is not the least
bit smoky making it closer to an Irish whiskey than
Scotch. What makes it so smooth is that it is distilled
three times, rather than the usual two, giving Glenkinchie
a light taste with citrus and honey flavors predominating.
BALVENIE
The double-wood expression of this whisky gives
you a sense of what different casks can do. Balvenie
matures in oak casks, then finishes out its years
in sherry casks that give the drink a distinctive
taste with strong hints of vanilla.
ARDBEG
Another elixir from Islay, this malt is not as brutal
as the Laphroaig. It’s more tarry with a sweet
licorice tone, and loads and loads of peat.
TALISKER
The most fiery and aggressive whisky comes from
the island of Skye. This may be the most famous
island
whisky, with its tastes of pepper, salt and smoke.
In old days, legend goes, the alcohol level in Talisker
was tested by adding gun-powder and torching it.
If nothing happened, it was too weak; if it exploded,
it was too strong—but when the flame burnt
steady, the level was just right.
DALWHINNIE
Produced in the highest distillery in Scotland,
this warming, sweet and full-bodied malt is not
to be missed.
HIGHLAND
PARK
From the Orkney Islands, north of Scotland, this
is a whisky not to be missed. Slightly smoky with
beautiful hints of oak, this is a beauty of a malt.
The 12-year-old is the standard age, but the 18-year-old
is worth every extra penny.
MORTLACH
If the Laphroaig is the Black Sabbath of whiskeys,
then Mortlach is the King Crimson: complex, ever-changing
and constantly offering new taste experiences. With
Glenfarclas, definitely one of the best malts you
can lay your hands on.
EDRADOUR
This fine whisky from the smallest distillery in
Scotland deserves mention. With an annual production
of what most others manage in a week or two, this
is a whisky crafted with love and devotion. A sweet
nose with hints of orange and a taste that moves
toward toffee and vanilla, but quite dry. If you
can find this, make sure to try it.
SINGLE
MALT
DISTRICTS
Scotland
is divided into whisky-making districts, each with
its own character and taste. Here’s a quick
look at the districts that produce six classic malts:
Lowlands
(the English border to just north of Glasgow and
Edinburgh): Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan
Highlands
(north of Lowlands): Oban, Dalwhinnie and Glenmorangie
Speyside
(East of the highlands along River Spey): MacAllan,
Glenfiddich and Glenlivet
Islands
(surround mainland, except Islay): Highland Park
and Talisker
Islay
(small southwestern island): Lagavulin, Laphroaig
and Bowmore
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