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Where Worlds Collide

Known for its namesake canal, Panama not only links the hemispheres but also boasts it’s very own intersection of jungle and city, urban and native, and exotic and stately.

Story and photos by Mark Holston

In Panama, intrigue, mystery and illusion are essential elements of the national psyche. At Playa Bonita, all three factors are essential factors in the resort’s success.
The scene at night from the balcony of a suite at Playa Bonita couldn’t be any more enchanting. Gentle waves stroke the crescent bay that fronts the fashionable ocean-side resort. Sandwiched between the warm waters of the Pacific and an imposing tangle of rainforest vegetation, its Moorish architectural flair creates a tropical fairytale-like setting.
Who would guess that until just a few years ago, the site was home to a no-frills U.S. military base? Or that almost a century earlier, American soldiers risked malaria and poisonous snakes while carving observation posts out of the neighboring jungle to keep an eye out for approaching enemies? Or that those dancing, nighttime lights are nothing more than the pilothouses of ships queued up and awaiting their turn to navigate the Panama Canal? Even the hotel’s general manager admits that it’s not Cancun.
Yet, all of these disparate elements have come together in typically Panamanian fashion to create a glistening whole that’s much greater than its individual parts. And the feeling that you are at an isolated retreat, 100 miles from civilization? Another illusion. By cab, Playa Bonita patrons are just 15 minutes from the heart of downtown Panama City with its high-rolling casinos, chic restaurants and shopping malls.
Playa Bonita is an example of Panamanian ingenuity and keen sense of adaptation at work. Already, it has become one of the country’s elite destinations. Colombian rock star Shakira and Spanish pop idol Miguel Bosé have found it to their liking, as have the presidents of Mexico and Colombia, along with a long list of celebrated guests.
What is known is that this resort—and others—offer what is becoming the calling card of destinations throughout the land: culinary delights and “soft” adventure experiences.
Panama’s ethnic mix of peoples from around the globe has produced a gastronomic tradition that is astounding in its variety, from such local staples as sancocho, patacones and ceviche in dozens of variations to an endless array of cuisines from the Middle East, Europe, Asia, the Caribbean, South America and even India. Whether at a destination resort or on the loose in Panama City, there are opportunities for memorable dining at every turn.
When adventure calls, it’s easy to see why Panama has become so popular in recent years with hikers, birdwatchers and others fascinated by this verdant land’s expansive stretches of undisturbed terrain and the wildlife it sustains. Even at Playa Bonita, a short hike in the neighboring rainforest yields many opportunities to see up close examples of Panama’s colorful natural world. Alejandro, the resort’s most experienced guide, points out two- and three-toed sloths and other jungle mammals and reptiles on the two-hour trek to Punta Bruja, from where guests will slide into sea kayaks for a half-hour, wave-skimming row back to home base.
At the Gamboa Tropical Rainforest Resort, another one-of-a-kind destination just 40 minutes from the city, guests are tempted by a wide range of natural science-focused programs. If they can tear themselves away from the relaxing charm of the resort’s Caribbean plantation-style house and its many amenities, they’ll discover why Panama is quickly becoming one of the primary eco-tourism destinations in the Americas. Bordered by the Chagres River, the Soberania National Park and the canal itself, most of the land surrounding Gamboa is remarkably unchanged since Spanish conquistadors traversed the fabled Las Cruces Trail on their way to Peru.
A foliage-choked path leads to a nearby village of the Emberá Indians, one of Panama’s several culturally intact indigenous groups. Noted for their weaving skills, Emberá artistry is on display in the hotel gift shop, which features museum quality baskets costing up to $3,000. Also on-site are interpretative centers focusing on reptiles, butterflies and orchids. An aerial tram sweeps visitors through the rainforest canopy to an observation tower overlooking the Panama Canal which, a century after its construction, remains one of the wonders of the modern world. Along the way, guides point out such oddities as the coati, a raccoon-like long-tailed forest dweller. Another winning option is a two-hour boat trip into the canal and a visit to several small islands inhabited by colonies of capuchin monkeys, who seem to delight by their daily interaction with fruit-bearing visitors.
The canal itself will prove to be an irresistible attraction for most. At the historic Miraflores Locks, just 20 minutes from Panama City, lunch can be enjoyed on the veranda of the on-site restaurant, while ships of all sizes rise and fall in the background. The new interpretive center, a four-story marvel of design and high-tech embellishments, uses historic artifacts stunningly-conceived visuals to tells the story of the canal’s construction and its unique relationship with the surrounding environment. Visitors who want to further experience what the canal has to offer can book passage on a day tour, by ship, through the Miraflores locks. Another not-to-be-missed experience is boarding the 1960s-era passenger cars of the Panama Railway, including one with a vista dome, for the 47-mile canal-skimming journey from Panama City to Colón, its sister port on the Caribbean side of the narrow country.
For those with a week or more on their hands, Panama’s more far-flung attractions offer many tempting possibilities. The volcano-accented highlands of the western provinces provide a respite from the hot and humid weather of the coastal areas at such retreats as Boquete and El Valle. In between are dozens of picturesque rural towns that have not yet suffered from over-exposure and offer an unfiltered glimpse into the bedrock traditions of this small nation’s past as a former Spanish colony. Along the northeast coast, a seemingly endless string of small islands are inhabited by the Kuna Indians, one of the most distinctive indigenous groups in the world. The colorful, multi-layered cloth mola, made by Kuna women as panels of their blouses, has become a virtual trademark of this singular civilization. An opportunity to see Kuna life up close should not be missed.
It’s easy to understand why Panama is attracting attention. A famous native son, salsa icon Rubén Blades, currently serving as his country’s minister of tourism, has recently been highly visible on international television extending a personal invitation to visit. Blades knows well the charm of such typical Panamanian experiences as strolling the narrow byways of Casco Viejo, Panama City’s historic district. This quaint retreat has recently seen an influx of art galleries, restaurants, a boutique hotel and even a hand-crafted ice cream shop. At the same time, it has retained the vibrant character of a neighborhood that has long been home to some of Panama City’s most eccentric personalities. It’s a perfect symbol of Panama itself—colorful, romantic, inviting, affordable and unpredictable.