1	Escape The relics of the past live on in Galicia, a seaside gem in northwest Spain. read more...
2	Salon Hasblady Guzman and the basis of beauty. read more...
3	Spice The many faces of Chef Lorena Garcia. read more...
4	Casa Making your home more eco-friendly. read more...
5	Driver’s Seat A dynamic duo with forward thrust. read more...
6	Style Products that make great presents for papi. read more...

Galicia by the Sea

In the northwest corner of Spain, just above Portugal, lies a pocket of Spain where Mother Nature has constructed the scenery with extensive green valleys, rivers and bays that stretch toward the sea. Circular paths through the mountains lead to granaries, crossings and stone constructions. Here in Galicia relics of the past live on, traces of paganism linger, the Celts have left their forts and the region has been left with a medieval mark. It’s a land of farmhands, fishermen, saints and pilgrims—all part of a folklore worth exploring.

MEDIEVAL SUMMER
The summer is the best season to enjoy Galicia because of the pilgrimages, holiday celebrations and outdoor festivals that shape the rich and varied Galician culture. With summer temperatures usually falling between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, its marine climate is excellent for enjoying the scenery and beaches.
The most unique and traditional of Galicia’s festivals is called el curro (which means corral) or rapa das bestas (capture of the beasts). It evolved from a tradition from horse breeders and tamers who raise wild horses in the mountains. Approximately 20 festivals are celebrated from May until August in various places in the region’s Lugo, Coruña and Pontevedra provinces.
In the parish of Sabucedo A Estrada, located in the Pontevedra province, the Curro of Saint Lorenzo of Sabucedo, a celebration that began in 1567, still takes place at the beginning of July. For three days, the people of Sabucedo take part in the descent of the wild horses to the curro. Once there, a shaving act begins, which for many is an act of bravery and workmanship. The fighters, using skill, experience and sheer strength, carry out a struggle with the horses in order to shave and mark them. Part of the mane and the tail are cut, which in the past were used for brushes and domestic tools. According to the townspeople, only they have the ability to perform this task. And it is believed that Saint Lorenzo protects them from getting hurt while they shave the horses before returning them to the mountain. The festival is also a time of feasting, and fighters and visitors alike share in the excellent Galician octopus and taste Barrantes, the regional red wine.
COMBARRO AND THE SEA
Combarro is a small fishing town located a little more than four miles (7km) from the capital of its province, Pontevedra. This destination is considered a pearl of Combarro, which are river estuaries where the waters converge. The old town was constructed to adapt to the life of its inhabitants: seamen and farmers.
Here visitors can see a distinctly Spanish construction called horreos, small house-like structures raised on pillars, and which have become regional icons. In Combarro, there are about 30 of these stone structures lining the granite base that gives form to the coast along the shoreline. At one time, these horreos served as drying rooms for anchovies, sardines and others fish typically caught in the ría, unlike typical Galician horreos used for grain storage.
The shore, dotted with horreos, blends right into the street along the coast of the municipality of Poio. The coastline, the horreos and the iconic image of the street San Roque provide the perfect picture of rural Galicia, and of its popular traditional architecture. Another classic symbol of the land are the cruceiros—handmade, free-standing crosses planted across the Galician countryside, placed in the squares and crossroads to function as protection for its townspeople.
Walking through the alleys, travellers will be intoxicated by the cool sea breeze blowing off of the clear, calm ocean, encouraging a stop at small bars and restaurants to taste seafood typical of the area (barnacles, spider-crabs and chocos) accompanied always by albariño wine, the primary product of the rías baixas.
THE BEACHES
At the point where Galicia meets the neighboring region of Asturias is the Eo river and the town of Ribadeo. Its rich local cuisine is dominated by seafood such as cockles, clams and oysters as well as salmon, trout and eels from the Eo. Exquisite sweets and cheeses are prepared by nuns at Saint Clara’s convent and in the ancient city of Mondoñedo, both in the province of Lugo.
Nearby lies the most spectacular beach in the Galician territory: the Cathedral Beach of thin, white sand. High above the sandy shore are towering cliffs stretching more than 300 meters long. The gigantic rocks form natural arches resemble a cathedral, creating an amazing view that changes with the tides. It is only possible to descend to these beaches at low tide. It is critical to keep vigilant on the time and know when the tides will change because, once it rolls in, it is impossible to leave. Rock slate eroded over time and green iridescent seas have created bends and caves that can be explored. It is even possible to hear the murmurs and hisses of the wind filter through the rocks with a sound like an imposing organ playing natural music.
In addition, the beaches of San Miguel of Reinante (in the region of Barreiros), Esteiro, the Illes, the Castros, Areosa and Olga (all which reside in Ribadeo), are part of the cathedral region, a natural area protected and catalogued as “Natural Network” by the European Economic Community.

TERMS TO KNOW ALONG YOUR TRAVELS

Ría: bay or estuary

Horreo: granary built on pillars

Curro: site where stock breeders shave wild horses

Albariño: a typical white wine of the rías baixas galegas

Barrantes: red wine from Galicia

Cruceiros: stone crossings, cross

Chocos: baby squid

Getting There
and Getting Around

Fly to Porto in Portugal and then drive 21/2 hours to Santiago de Compostela. Or fly to Madrid and connect for a local flight to Santiago de Compostela, Vigo or Coruña.

he Beaches of the Cathedrals (playa de las catedrales) are in the province of Lugo halfway between the tourist towns of Foz and Ribadeo. From Lugo, take the N-634 (towards Mondoñedo) to the municipality of Barreiros. Once along the coast, pay close attention in order not to miss the detour towards the beach.

Maps and helpful information can be found on the web at www.galinor.es and www.turgalicia.es